Brakes feel wrong? Stop driving
If the pedal goes spongy or low, the brake warning light stays on, or the car won't pull up as it should, find somewhere safe to stop and switch off. Don't drive it to the workshop, even if the brakes seem to come back: RACV's advice is to call roadside assistance and stay away from moving traffic. If anyone is hurt or in danger, call 000.
What does a brake job involve?
When you press the pedal, brake fluid pushes the calipers (the clamps at each wheel), and they squeeze the pads against the discs. Pads are made to wear away. Discs wear too, more slowly, and older cars may have drums on the back.
The mechanic takes the wheels off, measures the pads and discs against the maker's limits, checks the calipers, hoses and fluid, and fits what's needed. A pad change on its own is a small job. It grows if the discs are worn or warped, a caliper is sticking or there's a leak.
Some cars add a step. An electronic park brake usually needs a scan tool to wind the rear calipers back, and hybrids and EVs use regenerative braking as well. RACV says that isn't a replacement for the main brakes, so they still need inspecting.
How do I know the brake pads are worn?
The clubs don't give a kilometre figure, and neither would we. Pads wear with how the car gets used: hills, towing, city traffic and hard stops all use them faster, and RAC WA says brakes wear more quickly when used heavily.
A squeal is often the first thing you'll notice. A grinding noise is more serious, and it usually means the friction material has gone and metal is touching metal. Our guide on how long brake pads last goes further.
Warning signs to act on
- Grinding when you brake. Get it looked at now.
- A spongy or sinking pedal.
- A shudder through the pedal or steering wheel when braking.
- The brake light still on with the handbrake off. RACV says have it checked immediately, even if the brakes seem fine.
- Brake fluid below the minimum line. RAA says don't drive the car.
Do I need a brake fluid change too?
Probably, if it's been a while. RACQ says most makers suggest changing it roughly every two years, whatever the kilometres. RAA says usually every two to three.
It's about water, not distance. Brake fluid pulls moisture out of the air, which lowers its boiling point and corrodes brake parts. RAA says brake fade, when the pedal stops doing much, happens when the fluid boils. That's most likely on a long downhill run, so use the brakes briefly and firmly instead of riding them.
A level that creeps down slowly as pads wear is usually fine, RAA says. A sudden drop or an empty reservoir is a serious problem, and topping it up doesn't fix a leak.
What kind of mechanic suits a brake job?
Most general mechanics do pads, discs and fluid every week. Go to someone who knows your make if the car has an electronic park brake, big European brakes, or a hybrid system. In NSW, brake work sits under the Motor mechanic and Underbody tradesperson classes.
If you tow or drive heavy, say so. It changes what the mechanic will suggest for pads and discs.
What a good written brake estimate shows
- Front, rear or both, and what was measured.
- Pads only, or discs too, and why.
- Whether the discs are being machined or replaced.
- The state of the fluid, and whether it's due.
- Any caliper, hose or sensor work, listed by name.
- A test drive before the car comes back to you.
What you can do, and what to leave
You can
- Check the fluid level on the reservoir under the bonnet, against the minimum and maximum lines.
- Note when the noise happens: first thing, always, or only on hard stops.
- Say what you tow or carry, and how much of your driving is hills.
- Read the service book to see when the fluid was last changed.
Leave to the mechanic
- All brake work. Never do it yourself: it's the system that stops the car.
- Bleeding the system and changing the fluid.
- Measuring pads and discs, which needs the wheels off.
- Anything underneath, which needs the car on a hoist.
If it were our car
A squeal gets looked at this week. Grinding, a spongy pedal or a warning light that won't go out means the car stops where it is and a mechanic comes to it or it gets towed. We'd ask for the measurements on the estimate, so you can see how much pad is left, and we'd have the fluid looked at while the wheels are off. Pop the car in the card, and the mechanic will talk you through what's due.